{"id":1167,"date":"2025-12-08T18:39:38","date_gmt":"2025-12-08T18:39:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/?page_id=1167"},"modified":"2026-10-14T13:37:41","modified_gmt":"2026-10-14T13:37:41","slug":"september-2025-france-s-spain-morocco","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/fr\/september-2025-france-s-spain-morocco\/","title":{"rendered":"Septembre 2025 France, S.Espagne &amp; Maroc"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>In very early September, I scraped the half-inch of ice off the seat of the Himalayan, started up and headed around Lake Geneva on the south side, keeping to the low-altitude roads to avoid the cold. After a few kilometres, my frozen bum turned into a wet bum as the rest of the ice thawed out.<\/p>\n<p>The sun came up, and the warmth spread through me as I rode. I headed south as soon as possible. The kilometres went by&nbsp;:<br \/>Le Bouveret<br \/>Bons en Chablais<br \/>Annecy<br \/>Chambery<br \/>Valence<br \/>I was back to summery temperatures as I headed down through France.<\/p>\n<p>My first unforeseen problem was that most of the campsites close at the end of August. I spent a night in a hotel at Aubenas.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">I rode further, down through the Ard\u00e8che, spent a night stealth camping, breakfast at Laurac en Vivarais \u2013 excellent croissants ! I grinned to see the old men at the bar : Where they used to drink Pastis at 9 am., they now drink sparkling water. An old lady reversed her car into the Himalayan as I was trying to leave. She was pushing me sideways, the rear wheel luckily sliding across the tarmac. I hammered on her car roof with my free hand until she stopped.<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">I went on south-west, out of the Ard\u00e8che through the Cevennes and at last through the magnificent Tarn Gorges ; twisty, narrow road, beautiful villages and some spectacular castles.<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">I rode on, following the Tarn river until I stopped for a while to admire the magnificent Viaduct de Millau. It was built by France under a design team led by the French engineer Michel Virlogeux and the British architect Norman Foster.<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">You see photos and think it beautiful, but up close, it takes your breath away.<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">I was glad I didn\u2019t need to cross it with the little Himalayan being battered by crosswinds.<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">I found a campsite still open at Belmont sur Rance and spent a quiet night there.<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20250930_103158575.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20250930_103158575&#8243; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20250930_111541962.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20250930_111541962&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20250929_121204517.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20250929_121204517&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20250930_082211078.MP_.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20250930_082211078.MP&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20250930_111611592.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20250930_111611592&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20250930_122537184.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20250930_122537184&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The viaduct of Millau<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||23px|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||3px|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The next day I enjoyed riding some perfect roads for a motorbike, across the hills until I came to a place I once drove past in a lorry nearly forty years ago. I swore I would visit it one day: The medieval city of Carcassonne.<\/p>\n<p>I found a campsite nearby, went back out to do some shopping, then back to the campground to cook and eat.<\/p>\n<p>Next day, I was at the entrance to the ancient city by 9 am. I parked the Himalayan fifty metres from the entrance (one of the privileges of having a motorbike), walked in and found a cafe for coffee and croissants. I spent a couple of hours walking around, admiring the buildings, but feeling a little disappointed that most of what\u2019s within the walls is dedicated too selling souvenirs to tourists or feeding tourists. The history I read on Wikipedia about the city, was fascinating.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251002_082522972.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251002_082522972&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251002_082256346.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251002_082256346&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251002_083258184.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251002_083258184&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251002_095521118.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251002_095521118&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||9px|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">Travelers move on, and after a few hours in Carcassonne, that&#8217;s what I did, hitting the coast near Perpignan, and riding across the frontier at a place called Cerb\u00e8re. Cerb\u00e8re is very much a railway town, the station having a seemingly out-sized proportion. I learned that it\u2019s a main railway crossing between France and Spain and that the two countries use different railway gauges. Seems it\u2019s not only the British who do stupid things like that.<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">I rode down the coast of Spain, looking at one or two campsites. One was closed, one was a bleak place on a very windy headland. I pitched my tent in a muddy low-lying campsite, close to the sea.<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\" style=\"line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0mm;\">The other campers were friendly, but as soon as the sun set, we were attacked by hordes of mosquitoes, so we all ran to our tents or vans to escape their bites.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251005_155551683.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251005_155551683&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251005_155538744.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251005_155538744&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251006_070553470.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251006_070553470&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||0px|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Next day, I rode on, determined not to camp on the flat, marshy coast. I rode on and on, finally reaching a low-priced hotel in Tarragona. During my evening there, I learned that heavy rain was expected along the coast further south, so, rather than following the coast, I planned a route that would take me further inland, hopefully missing the rain.<\/p>\n<p>I set off the next day, heading more or less west, over a range of low mountains, aiming to pass south of Madrid. The rain caught me on the mountain range where it goes through a national park called Serrania de Cuenca. I stopped at a filling station which had a small restaurant and slowly dried out as I ate. When I left there, the rain stopped, and riding was much more enjoyable.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Next day, I rode on, determined not to camp on the flat, marshy coast. I rode on and on, finally reaching a low-priced hotel in Tarragona. During my evening there, I learned that heavy rain was expected along the coast further south, so, rather than following the coast, I planned a route that would take me further inland, hopefully missing the rain.<\/p>\n<p>I set off next day, heading more or less west, over a range of low mountains, aiming to pass south of Madrid. The rain caught me on the mountain range where it goes through a national park called Serrania de Cuenca. I stopped at a filling station which had a small restaurant and slowly dried out as I ate. When I left there, the rain stopped and riding was much more enjoyable.<\/p>\n<p>I spent a night in an old tired-looking campsite, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. There was a restaurant and it was quiet. I pitched the tent and wandered down to the restaurant and drank a beer. There was a choice of meal&nbsp;: what the missus is cooking, or nothing. I chose what the missus was cooking, and ate it while I sipped another beer. After I\u2019d eaten, the old man (presumably hubby) came over and poured me a glass of something homemade. It was delicious \u2013 and strong.<\/p>\n<p>Whatever it was, it wasn\u2019t on the (cheap) bill, and I paid, packed up and left, riding along a good road to Cordoba.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251007_083408048.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251007_083408048&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251007_0834080482.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251007_083408048~2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251008_093249919.MP_.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251008_093249919.MP&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251008_093256763.MP_.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251008_093256763.MP&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3866.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3866&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251008_085655822.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251008_085655822&#8243; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3895.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3895&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3868.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3868&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3875.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3875&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>What a fascinating place&nbsp;! Walking around the old city, everywhere I looked I could see a curious mixture of the Islamic style decorations that are familiar to me in Morocco, Roman buildings and styles, and Medieval European. A really beautiful mixture&nbsp;!<br \/>\nI spent a whole day wandering around the streets, just taking it all in.<\/p>\n<p>Next day, leaving some of the gear (and weight) at the campsite, I rode to Granada. It took me ages to find a place to park, then a thirty-minute walk uphill to the entrance to the Alhambra. An hour of queuing, only to learn you have to buy tickets online and there are none available until the end of November. Oh well, back to the campsite&nbsp;!<\/p>\n<p>At the campsite I made friends with a Swiss man and his Thai wife. They\u2019ve been together in Thailand for 25 years. He says he\u2019ll never move back to Switzerland. She cooked very spicy Thai food and I supplied Spanish Brandy. We had a great evening together.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Next day I packed and left. I went to Ronda to see the famous bridge. I liked the town,  paved streets and colourful houses. I rode further still, along the edge of some natural parks and arrived at a campsite at Sevilla.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251012_092114362.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251012_092114362&#8243; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Sevilla.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251012_092349365.MP_.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251012_092349365.MP&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251012_093314987.MP_.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251012_093314987.MP&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251012_104052135.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251012_104052135&#8243; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251012_101132356.MP_.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251012_101132356.MP&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251012_100235385.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251012_100235385&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251012_094632646.MP_.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251012_094632646.MP&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251012_175807663.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251012_175807663&#8243; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Dusk in the Sevilla campsite, parrots everywhere!<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Stretching from Sevilla to the coast, I rode through olive groves. It was the picking (and pressing) season and for three hundred kilometres I could smell olives.<\/p>\n<p>I spent a night in a hotel at Algeciras, overlooking the port, and bought my boat ticket before sleeping.<\/p>\n<p>I was on the 9 am. boat across to Ceuta. The crossing takes about the same time as a Dover to Calais ferry-crossing.<br \/>Once disembarked, entry to Ceuta was very simple (it\u2019s politically part of Spain) and entry into Morocco was just as simple.<\/p>\n<p>I took the coast road toward Tetouan. There were lots of workers cleaning the streets. I wished they cleaned the streets like that in the part of Morocco where we have the guesthouse \u00abBab El Atlas.\u00bb<\/p>\n<p>The most striking difference between the south of Spain and the north of Morocco was the police&nbsp;:<\/p>\n<p>In Morocco,&nbsp; road checks everywhere, every few kilometres was a check of vehicle papers, or personal papers, and that was interspersed with police with radar pistols to catch people speeding, or at lease say they were speeding.<br \/>What an enormous waste of time for all involved&nbsp;! I drove thousands of kilometres in Europe with not one police check&nbsp;!<\/p>\n<p>Ever since my first visit to Morocco in 2010, I\u2019d heard of Chefchaouen. It\u2019s a whole town, painted in a particular shade of blue.<br \/>Chefchaouen is one of those places heavily marketed and advertised by tourism media. Beloved of influencers and social networks, my expectations were high, but, once there, all it was, was a town painted blue, with crowds of tourists.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I didn&#8217;t stay.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251014_120533759-scaled.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251014_120533759&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/PXL_20251014_120549121-scaled.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;PXL_20251014_120549121&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Riding south, on some roads. Asphalt-covered, yes, but badly deformed and dangerous on a motorbike. I had to slow down for safety reasons. I arrived at Meknes and found a cheap hotel.<br \/>\nThere was a very good reason to visit this area&nbsp;:<\/p>\n<p>Volubilis.<\/p>\n<p>(according to Wikipedia)<\/p>\n<p>Volubilis is a partly excavated Berber-Roman city in Morocco, situated near the city of Meknes, that may have been the capital of the Kingdom of Mauretania,<\/p>\n<p>That doesn\u2019t describe the size, nor the majesty of the site. It covers around 100 acres and is the biggest Roman site I, personally, have seen outside of Pompeii. If you come to Morocco, it\u2019s well worth a day\u2019s visit.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3909.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3909&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3913.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3913&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3917.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3917&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3950.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3950&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3921.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3921&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3946.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3946&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3924.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3924&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/KD2_3941.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;KD2_3941&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>All good things come to an end. I rode from there to Marrakech, stopped for the night and, after a night there, on to Ouarzazate and back to Bab El Atlas. It was the beginning of October, so I\u2019d been a month on the road. It was good to stop and rest.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_comments _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_comments][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In very early September, I scraped the half-inch of ice off the seat of the Himalayan, started up and headed around Lake Geneva on the south side, keeping to the low-altitude roads to avoid the cold. After a few kilometres, my frozen bum turned into a wet bum as the rest of the ice&#8230;<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-1167","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1167","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1167"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1167\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1889,"href":"https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1167\/revisions\/1889"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/on2wheels.world\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1167"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}